Tasting a new vintage of Sanford & Benedict is always a treat, and this bottling keeps the tradition alive. With its classic dark cherry-colored core and light edges, the 2022 is a swirling paisley of Maraschino, green peppercorn, snapped thyme and Branston chutney; plenty juicy and lifted but sly in savory spice that perforates the fruity initial sip. The famous minerality of this site comes next, winding up a finish that suggests a long life ahead. Most importantly, though, the wine is delightful today.