Mount Carmel, an enclave of the Rita’s Crown vineyard that sits in the nosebleeds of the Sta. Rita Hills, has always shown a distinct take on Pinot Noir with its pure diatomaceous earth and sun-drenched, direct southern exposure. With this bottling, high-toned red berry fruit, bay leaf and pink peppercorn offer a lifted, airy expression that asks for little beyond pure enjoyment with each whiff. On the palate, though, still-youthful tannins are in need of food — and a wide range of cuisine will suffice — as the wine’s agility keeps everything in line. (11/3/2023)